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#2 Pink Princess Philodendron

Philodendron erubescens 'Pink Princess' #2

Araceae

Price: $ 199.99
Catalog ID# 12646
In Stock: 1
4.5 inch Pot / 20 fl.oz. / 591 ml
 Reviews

The near black to deep burgundy, glossy, heart-shaped tropical foliage is splashed and flecked with pink and white and the images shown are examples of how extreme the variegation can be with entire leaves or large portions of leaves being entirely pink. The Pink Princess Philodendron, a selection or hybrid of Philodendron erubescens, is a slow growing vine-like tropical plant which can be allowed to trail or trained to a support. It is tolerant of medium to semi-bright light conditions indoors and should not be exposed to direct sunlight even through a window. Outdoors on or a shaded porch or patio, the plants should be in light shade with no direct sunlight which can burn the foliage. Provide an average moist, fertile, well-drained soil for optimum vigor and never allow the plants to remain soggy wet even for short periods. Images shown are of the actual plant that you will receive and are individually numbered. For reference the 4.5" pot is 4" high. Images of the foliage only are examples of this plant's potential. Each plant is well-established and has good to excellent variegation.

We use a typical potting soil for our Pink Princess Philodendrons but then add materials, like hadite or pea gravel, to help improve drainage. 


Grows To: 1-6' x 1-6' Shrub, 12' Vine

This is the average expected mature height by width in feet or inches. Feet are represented by a single quote and inches by a double quote. Under poor growing conditions plants may be slightly to significantly smaller, whereas excellent growing conditions can produce larger more vigorous plants.


USDA Cold Hardiness Zones: 10B,11

USDA Cold Hardiness Zones were established to give gardeners, horticulturists, farmers, nurseries, and landscape architects a universal way to describe where a plant will survive with regard to average winter lows for a region. And these are averages, here in zone 8B ('A' represents the colder half of a zone and 'B' represents the warmer half of the zone and they are separated by about 5oF) we have seen single digits but that is the exception but should be noted by the daring gardener. Each zone is separated by 10oF and the map was updated in 2012. Our zones do not always agree but we try to use our own experience as to what can be depended on to return or have known reputable gardens and or horticulturists to reliably grow that plant in zones that are usually colder but sometimes warmer than what other resources have available. For more on stretching your cold hardiness zones see the ""Growing on the Edge Growing Guide". If you do not know your zone you can find it by clicking on the "USDA Cold Hardiness Zones" link here or above.


Outdoor Light: Light shade, Bright shade, Shade

Full Sun - 8 hours or more of direct sunlight; Partial Sun or Partial Shade - 4-6 hours of direct sunlight; AM Sun or Morning Sun or Cool Sunlight - cool sunlight but usually in the shade during the heat of the day; Light Shade - Bright indirect sunlight for much of the day; Filtered Shade - may receive some amount of direct moving sunlight like through trees but usually not for any extended period especially during the heat of the day; Shade - no or very little direct sunlight, especially not during the heat of the day.


Indoor Light: Medium Indirect Light

Direct Sunlight - preferably 4 or more hours of direct sunlight through an unshaded south, east or west facing window; High Light - may tolerate no direct sunlight but will need very bright indirect light for 4 or more hours; High Indirect Light - bright indirect sunlight for much of the day; Medium Light - bright indirect light for 2-4 hours or more; Low Light - (few plants can do well under very low indoor light levels but some may tolerate it) no direct sunlight with little bright true sunlight filtering into the area; Cool Sunlight or Cool AM(morning) Sunlight - direct sunlight like in an east facing window but not during the heat of the day and will likely also tolerate cool sunlight late in the day, filtered sunlight may also be tolerated.


pH Range: Acidic, Mildly Acidic, Neutral

Acidic or Strongly Acidic - pH less than 5.5; Mildly Acidic - pH 5.6-6.5; Neutral - pH 6.6-7.3; Mildly Alkaline - pH 7.4-8.4; Alkaline or Strongly Alkaline pH higher than 8.4. Acid loving plants that are grown under alkaline conditions often exhibit nutrient deficiencies since the roots are not able to draw some types of minerals from the soil. Gardenias, for instance, may need to be sprayed with chelated iron. Most plants that are native to alkaline soils can be grown in neutral to mildly acidic soils successfully, although the opposite generally is not true.


Soil & Moisture: Average moist, well-drained, fertile soils. Allow the soil to become slightly dry between waterings and more so during winter when growth is typically slowest. Never keep soggy wet.

These are the basic soil types and moisture levels where this plant will survive, not necessarily thrive. Drought resistant plants will need to be well-established, usually 2-3 years at a minimum, in the garden or landscape before they are able to withstand lengthy periods (weeks or months) without supplemental water. Most plants will grow and flower and or fruit best where they have ample moisture and nutrients available during the growing season. With that said, many plants, like prairie natives, are quite adaptable to soil types and can thrive in heavy clay as easily as a loose sandy loam.


Do you know the many benefits of a proper organic mulch? Click here to learn more.

A breathable organic mulch is not only aesthetically pleasing (looks nice) but can:

  • Help to improve soil organic matter as it breaks down.
  • Provide shade for the soil to help reduce moisture loss and prevent weed seed germination.
  • Provide soil microbes, mycorrhizae (beneficial fungi), earthworms,and even nematode predators the necessary organic matter and ecosystem to thrive while their actions aid in improving soil tilth and or friability (think of this as the ease with which roots are able to penetrate the soil).
  • Provide insulation to protect the crowns of tender perennials and die-back perennials giving gardeners up to an extra half a zone of winter warmth allowing us to grow that which we normally could not.
  • Provide soil temperature moderation preventing premature soil warming in winter and providing a cooler root zone in summer.
  • So which mulch is our favorite? Our preferred mulch is Longleaf Pine Straw which has: a natural weed preventative for the first year after it is applied; it is sustainably harvested; and it provides protection from soil erosion and doesn't float away, and yet is still both insulative and breathable; while Longleaf Pine Straw appears to last the longest in the garden and landscape in our opinion as compared to Loblolly.


Fertilizing: When in active growth.

In general, plants will require the most nutrients when in active growth and less when dormant. For indoor plants and tropical plants grown in a warm greenhouse or atrium this may be year round. For winter growing perennials, like Louisiana Iris that go dormant in late summer, this may mean fertilizing in fall and winter. For spring and summer growing perennials, and practically all trees, shrubs, and perennial and woody vines in the garden we generally start fertilizing as early as 6 weeks prior to bud break (about Valentine's Day here in zone 8B in Louisiana) and they can be fertilized up to about 6 weeks prior to the earliest expected hard frost or freeze (about mid-August here in our gardens). This allows for tender new growth, and the entire plant really, to "harden off" prior to what could be potentially damaging temperatures and ultimately causing more harm than good.

One of the most common questions that we get is what fertilizer do you recommend? Obviously it will depend on the particular plant but a good quality, slow-release, non-burning fertilizer is what we prefer. Each time it rains or each time you water your plants are getting fed. Most of these fertilizers are either slowly dissolved or osmotically passed through the outer layer of a pellet. We use Scott's Osmocote© 14-14-14 and 18-6-12 on 99% of the plants that we grow, it is more expensive than some fertilizers but we can depend on the results. DO NOT use common garden fertilizers (like 8-8-8,12-12-12) on acid loving plants as it may contain lime as a filler and so can be deadly to plants like Blueberries, Azaleas, and Camellias.


When to Plant: Uppot or repot during the growing season, generally spring until about midsummer.

Preferred planting seasons ranging in order of the most optimum to least optimum times for ease of establishment. Container grown plants, like what we ship, can be successfully transplanted anytime of year as long as proper care is provided. This gives container grown plants an edge on bareroot plants. With that said, there are easier and harder times to establish some plants mainly due to the additional moisture required by the plant during the main growing seasons like spring and summer. If you keep that in mind there is no reason that the great majority of plants can't be added to the garden anytime of year.


This plant may be toxic to humans and/or animals, click here for details

Please be advised that humans and/or animals may have allergic reactions if part(s) of this plant are consumed or by coming into contact with sap from bruised or broken plant parts: All plant parts are poisonous if ingested. Handling may cause dermatitis in sensitive individuals.



Container Plant Growing Guide - includes uppotting, repotting, potting soil selection, proper watering techniques for containers, what does brown or yellow foliage and green soil indicate, and more

See our Planting A New Plant In the Garden or Landscape, How To, and General Growing Guide for basic planting, initial watering and estabishment watering in instructions

The information listed above that has a black arrow symbol,, before the property name is expandable (just click on it anywhere) and it will contain additional details and a more in-depth description of the terms that we use in this plant's description. This information is based on our years of experience both gardening and growing plants, input from other horticulturists, nursery people, gardeners, and research. If you feel we are missing important information about a plant please feel free to share it with us so that we can pass it on.

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